The Joy of Fermentation

OK! This is going to be so much fun!

I’ve been thinking about creating this program for ages and I’m so excited to take you on this journey into the wonderful world of fermentation.

I’ve been obsessed with fermented foods and microbiology for the longest time.

Ever since I had my first slice of Camembert cheese and realized I was eating microbes, I’ve wanted to learn more.

This obsession was a driver for my decision to become a food scientist and later a wine maker. It’s taken me on some excellent adventures.

And now I get to share my love for all things microbial and delicious with you. Yay!

Let’s dive in!
Jx

ps. As I’ve been pulling together this training I’ve realized just how many fermentation projects I have going on. From the outside it might seem overwhelming but it’s actually not that much work.

Like most things in life, once you get a system happening, everything comes together quite quickly.

So I encourage you to just choose one project to get started. If you’re not sure, basic fermented veg are the best place because you don’t need any special ingredients or equipment.

Then when you’re happy with your first project, you can take it from there…

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Why Fermented Foods?

In case you’re not 100% convinced that learning about fermentation is worth your while, here’s why I love them.

1. Taste

Just think about a glass of grape juice. Then think about a glass of champagne.

Worlds apart right?

It’s been fermentation that’s added all those complex champagne flavour and those tantalizing bubbles.

For me the biggest reason to ferment is because it’s so delicious.

2. Gut Health & General Health

There’s no doubt in the link between eating fermented foods, improved gut health and general health and longevity.

While there’s still so much about our gut microbiome to be understood, consuming probiotics containing beneficial microbes (especially) bacteria is good for our guts.

While you can get these microbes from a capsule, it’s much more delicious and fun to grow your own.

See the resources below if you’d like to explore more about gut health.

Apart from the prociotic benefits, the other health aspect of fermentation is that fermented foods can be easier to digest and contain more bioavailable nutrients. Which just means the microbes convert nutrients into a form our bodies can use.

A good example is for people with lactose intolerance, milk can be problematic where as yoghurt where the microbes have converted the lactose into lactic acid, is fine.

3. Reduce Waste

Fermentation is a brilliant way to naturally preserve foods so they last longer and so you waste less.

I’ve had a jar of sauerkraut in the fridge for almost 6 months whereas a fresh cabbage starts to go bad after a few weeks.

Then think about fresh milk v’s a hunk of parmesan.

Fermented foods last longer because we generally (not always) add some salt which helps.

But the biggest preservative factor is that during fermentation sugars are converted to acid which lowers the pH and makes it harder for spoilage micobes to grow and cause damage.

Fermentation can also deactivate spoilage enzymes which again has a preservative effect.

4. Save Money

Apart from the waste reduction savings, fermenting yourself is significantly cheaper than buying fermented food. Just look at the price of a jar of sauerkraut or a bottle of kombucha next time you’re in the health food store. And compare it with the cost of a head of cabbage and a little salt.

If you start fermenting it won’t take long for this program to have paid for itself!

5. Fun

At the risk of sounding like a crazy fermentation lady, I just love spending time preparing and looking after my sauerkraut, kefir and my kombucha.

There’s something about having all these little organisms doing good work for you that’s rewarding beyond just being able to eat the fruits of your (and their) labours.

So be warned… this fermentation thing can be addictive!

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Microbiology Basics

If you’re not into science, I give to permission to skip this section.

You really don’t need to understand anything about microbiology to be amazing at fermenting.

People have been making fermented foods for thousands of years without even knowing that microbes existed. Louis Pasteur only founded the field of microbiology in the mid 1800s.

So feel free to skip on to the ‘how to’ sections.

But if you’re up for a bit of micro geekiness, this section is for you!

The Golden Rules of Food Microbiology

First we need to get you thinking about microbes in a positive way.

RULE No. 1. Microbes are everywhere. Literally. On every surface, in the air, in the soil, and happily in our food.

The point isn’t to get rid of microbes, it’s too create conditions so the friendly microbes can thrive and crowd out any disease-causing species.

Forget all those ‘antibacterial’ cleaning products. While they have a place for preventing the spread of disease in hospitals, they’re not generally helpful in the home because they kill all microbes. Including the friendlies.

RULE No. 2. Fermentation is about selecting the environment to allow the good bugs to flourish.

As I mentioned above, humans have been harnessing the powers of microbes to transform our food for thousands of years before we even knew about the existence of microbiology.

While we can use commercial starter cultures (and I do on occasion), the key to success is creating the right environment so the bacteria / yeasts / fungi can do their thing. It’s really that simple.

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Different Types of Microbes

I can’t remember the exact magnitude, but there are many many more microbial species in the world than all the other living things. And that’s just the ones we’ve been able to study in labs.

Rather than overwhelming you with all the detailed scientific names, I’m going to keep this as general as you really need to know.

If you want to go deeper, or have specific questions, just ask in the comments below. Or on the Ask Jules page.

Bacteria

Bacteria are the smallest microbes. They’re made up of just one cell. So as small as a life form can get.

The main types of bacteria we’re using in fermentation include:

• Lactic Acid Bacteria – These are the guys you think of when you think ‘pro-biotics’. They’re a big group of bacteria the most famous are the Lactobacillus species and Acidophilis species. They are helpful because they eat the sugar in milk or other carbohydrates and turn them into lactic acid. More on this later.
• Acetic Acid Bacteria – These guys can be friend or foe. If you’re a wine maker, they are your nemesis because they eat the alcohol in your precious vino and turn it into acetic acid (vinegar). Of course if you’re a vinegar maker, acetic acid bacteria are your work horses.

Yeasts

Yeasts are larger than bacteria but still microscopic.

The number one yeast used commercially is called Saccharomyces cerevisiae. It’s the microbe used to convert the sugar in grape juice to alcohol in wine. Ditto beer and the carbs in the grains used in brewing.

If that wasn’t enough, it’s also the key microbe used in baking bread and making pizza. Here the little Saccharomyces guys eat the carbs in the flour and turn them into a little alcohol (which evaporates during baking) and lots of carbon dioxide gas (CO2) which causes your dough to rise and results in that beautiful bready texture.

The other yeasts are found in the SCOBYs used to ferment kombucha and kefir.

A ‘SCOBY’ just stands for a ‘Symboitic Colony of Bacteria and Yeast’. Which just means it’s a bunch of different yeast and bacteria species that work together (the symbiotic part). We’ll go deeper into SCOBYS when we get to kombucha and kefir. They’re fun though. It’s a little like having a pet.

Fungi (Molds)

Fungi are the big guys you can see. Like mushrooms and truffles.

From a fermentation perspective they are mostly used in cheese making. Think the white fluffy rind of a camembert or brie (Penecillium camemberti) or the gnarly veins in your favourite blue cheese (Penecillium roqueforti).

As far as this program goes, we won’t be using any fungi to purposefully ferment.

It’s more about getting the fungi not to grow. Fungi tend to be sensitive to acid and low moisture environments so these are our key weapons.

The main thing to know about fungi is white molds growning on your ferments are harmless. And if you’ve got some blue cheese looking penecillium that’s fine too. But everything else, especially brightly coloured moulds mean it’s time to discard your project and start again.

Not because you’re necessarily going to die from eating these fungi, the main problem is that they produce toxins such as aflatoxin which accumulate in your liver and are known carcinogens.

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The Importance of Temperature

Here’s the simple rule of thumb. The warmer the temperature (up to a point), the faster your microbes will grow. And the faster your fermentation will happen.

This is why it’s hard to give exact times for your ferments. Because it really depends.

So if you want a fermentation to happen faster, move it to a warmer area. To slow things down, you know what to do.

Apart from some hard core microbes, most can’t survive about 50C (122F). Which is why it’s important to cool your milk down when making yoghurt before adding the culture.

The other thing with temperature is freezing doesn’t kill most microbes, it just slows them right down. But they’re still there doing their thing and as soon as they get defrosted, they’ll start growing again.

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The Importance of Air

Apart from knowing your bacteria, yeasts and fungi, the other way to categorize microbes is whether they need air (oxygen) like us or not.

Microbes which need air are called ‘Aerobes’.

Those that don’t need air are called ‘Anaerobes’.

There are also some which like to have it both ways. If there’s air around they’ll use it. And if not these tricky little devils will switch to grow without it.

These are the ‘Facultative Aerobes’. You don’t really need to know this one but thought I’d throw in a bit more advanced knowledge so you can impress your friends ;).

Most moulds and fungi need air to grow which is why you find them on the surface of foods.

Our friends the lactic acid bacteria do not need air, which is why lactic ferments happen in liquid.

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The Importance of Acid

All microbes are sensitive to acid and cannot survive in very acidic conditions (low pH). Which is why adding acid is a great way to preserve food. Hello vinegar pickles.

However some microbes are able to tolerate more acid than others.

No prizes for guessing that our friends the lactic acid bacteria and acetic acid bacteria are able to cope with some acid. And actually produce acid as they grow. This is why fermented foods last a long time.

The bacteria produce acid which they can tolerate and the spoilage microbes can’t. Happy days.

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Tips for Food Safety

The first thing you should know is that no one has died from eating fermented vegetables. So they’re a very safe and easy place to start. And if you’re using pasteurized milk, dairy is also very safe.

If you’re worried about botulism, the bacteria responsible is sensitive to acid. So by fermenting and creating acid you’re making it impossible for botulism to occur.

With your ferments the rule of thumb is that white moulds are fine. Just remove them and continue on. But brightly coloured or black molds can be problematic. So best to scrap that project and continue on.

And finally just trust your instincts. If something doesn’t taste or smell right, best to throw it out. (Or if in doubt just ask me in the comments below!)

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Ingredients

Salt

Any salt can be used in your ferments. So no need to get anything new.

I’ve heard that iodized salt can inhibit your ferments, but Sandoor Katz, my fermenting guru says he’s used iodized salt without any problems.

I generally use a finely ground Himalayan salt or fine sea salt. Best not to use your expensive Maldon sea salt flakes because their beautiful texture will be lost in the ferment.

Starter Cultures

I buy a freeze dried starter culture for my yoghurt which I keep in the freezer. My Last packet kept me going for 5 years! I order mine online but have also seen yoghurt starters at my health food store. The more strains of bacteria included in your starter the better.

Dried Yeast

For bread making and pizza I keep dried yeast in the fridge. Again it lasts for years. I just got mine from the supermarket.

SCOBYs

In case you skipped the microbiology section, a SCOBY is a Symbiotic Colony of Bacteria and Yeasts. These are used to ferment kefir and kombucha. I got my kombucha SCOBY from the health food store and my kefir grains from a friend. Both can be ordered online. And both are a little like having a pet.

Whey

You know when you’ve taken some yoghurt out of the container and the next time you go to eat it there’s a watery liquid. This is your whey and it can be used to help get your new ferments started. Although not essential it does speed things up by introducing extra lactic acid bacteria.

Vegetables

Pretty much all vegetables can be fermented. For veggies in the dirty dozen list, best to choose organic but apart from that it’s up to you.

I generally don’t ferment veggies with lots of chlorophyll like leafy greens (kale, spinach, chard leaves) because I’ve read they can get quite stinky. However I do use a little bok choy and green onion (scllions) in my kimchi and am happy with the results.

Fruit

I generally don’t do whole fruit ferments because I don’t eat that much fruit. Although I have fermented cherries and cumquats with some success.
And fermented Rhubarb is one of my favourite ways to use the abundant rhubarb from my garden.

I just use the same method as my basic fermented veg.

Fruit can make a lovely addition to other ferments. For example it’s common to see apple in saurekraut. So feel free to experiment. Just be aware that the more sugar you have from fruit, the more likely your ferment will contain some alcohol (which may or may not be a good thing!).

Spices

All spices can add lovely flavour to ferments. I tend to use whole spices so they look prettier, but ground spices can be added if you prefer. My go-tos are caraway seeds in my sauerkraut and red chilli pepper flakes in my kimchi.

I’ve also had success with coriander seeds, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, grated fresh ginger, sliced garlic, grated fresh turmeric (and ground turmeric).

Herbs

While you can ferment the leafy herbs like parsley, coriander (cilantro), mint and basil, I generally don’t because the flavour gets so diluted that it feels like a waste. Bay leaves and the ‘woody’ herbs like rosemary and thyme can be lovely.

Milk / Cream

Any milk or cream you’re fine to eat is good for fermenting. I use homogenized milk for my yoghurt so the fat stays in suspension and you get a creamier yoghurt.

I have used unhomogenized milk and the cream separated out on top which was OK but not as nice as having it dispersed.

Some people add full cream milk powder to their yoghurt to make it thicker. I don’t because I’m not a fan of the dried milk powder flavour.

And I have a friend who uses UHT milk for her yoghurt which makes it super easy because there’s no need to heat the milk and wait for it to cool. But again I’m not a fan of the flavour. But it’s an option if you prefer.

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Equipment

You don’t need any special equipment to get started with fermenting, however there are a few items that can make life easier…

Glass Jars & Bottles

Most of my fermenting is done in glass. I have bottles that are about 500mL (2 cups) for my yoghurt that I saved from a mayonnaise I used to buy.

Then I have a heap of 1L (4 cup) jars with swing lids attached that I got from Ikea they’re called Korken (pictured above in the fermentation class logo). I also have some 0.5L (2 cup) ones for smaller fermenting projects. These are my main jars for fermenting vegetables.

Mason jars will work as well. For fermenting veg you need a wide mouth so you can reach in to pack the veggies down.

I also have a heap of 250mL (1 cup) glass juice bottles I purchased for storing my kombucha.

Fermenting Crocks

If you have one go for it!

I don’t. Although they do look pretty, I’m happy sticking to my Ikea jars.

Temperature Probe

Needed for yoghurt making. I use mine for all temperature measurements (meat, yoghurt, candy). And it reads in both Celsius and Fahrenheit.

If you’re not planning on getting into yoghurt or cheese making and you don’t cook large chunks of meat or candy, you won’t need one.

Large Saucepan / Pot

For brewing up kombucha tea and heating milk for yoghurt & cheese. I use a stainless steel stock pot.

You’ll read that metal containers shouldn’t be used for ferments but that’s just for long term storage because the acid from the ferment can degrade the metal over time.

Kombucha Fermenter

You don’t need one. A large jar with a wide neck is fine. I started my kombucha fermenting in large (2L / 8 cup) Ikea jars.

Then once I was happy that I wanted to get into making my own kombucha for real, I invested in a 9L (2 gallon) kombucha fermenting jar.

Esky / Cooler Bag

For keeping yoghurt / cheese ferments warm during the fermenting period. Not essential though, you can wrap them in blankets or keep in the oven with the pilot light on.

Strainer

I have a largish metal mesh strainer I use for straining youghurt to make labneh. And for removing whey when making ricotta.

I also have a metal tea strainer I use for straining my kefir grains.

Cheesecloth

For straining yoghurt and cheese. Not essential to get cheese cloth. A clean tea towel will also work.

I got mine from a cheese making supplies shop online when I ordered my yoghurt culture.

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Fermentation Techniques

We’ll go into detail on specific techniques in each recipe. But here are a few general techniques to consider.

Sterilizing Jars / Equipment

Generally when I’m fermenting vegetables, vinegar and kombucha I don’t worry about sterilizing because the acid generated during ferment is generally enough to stop any spoilage microbes.

For yoghurt and cheesemaking I do some sterilization of my jars and lids.

There are 2 main methods I use.

i. Put them through the dishwasher on a hot setting.

ii. Put them in the oven. Turn it on to 120C (250F) and let the jars gently heat up for about 30 minutes. Then I turn off the oven and let everything cool back down before filling the jars. I made the mistake of trying to fill hot jars once and ended up with broken glass everywhere.

Tasting

I can’t stress how important it is to taste your ferments. It’s the only way to know if you’re happy and they’re ready to eat.

There are so many factors governing how quickly your fermentation will happen. Following a set time may work some times but it won’t work always.

Tasting your ferments also helps you learn how they change over time.

Plus it’s really fun as well.

Just make sure you always a clean spoon so you don’t get any cross contamination from your mouth. Same goes for when serving your ferment.

Advanced Tasting

If you want to really make your inner geek happy, set up some little experiments.

One of my favourites is to make 2 or 3 jars of a ferment. Say yoghurt, Then refrigerate on jar after 12 hours, another after 24 hours and the final one after 36 hours. When they’ve all be refrigerated, taste them next to each other and see which one you prefer.

I actually did this recently for my yoghurt and have since switched to fermenting for 24 hours instead of just 12.

Checking for Other Signs of Progress

In yoghurt this is the change in state from liquid to set gel.

For kefir you will see the grains growing. Similarly with kombucha and its SCOBY.

For vegetable ferments there can be changes in colour as the acid is produced (and the pH decreases). This is especially noticeable in red cabbage sauerkraut which goes from purple to a very deep red.

The other big sign is seeing gas bubbles produced.

Think about your bread or pizza dough rising. Or in vegetable ferments the ‘hiss’ as you open the lid to release the gas.

Taking Notes

Its amazing at the time I’m doing something I always think ‘I’ll remember this’. Yet weeks later, I have no idea if I used 10 or 12 teabags in my kombucha batch.

So (mostly) I take notes as I go. I use evernote and just type them in when I’m in the kitchen or at the very latest that evening before I go to bed.

This way I can look back and really learn from what works (and from what doesn’t as well!).

It doesn’t matter what system you use for note taking, the key is to make it easy and fun for yourself.

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8 Tips for Fermenting Like a Pro

1. Start Small

Learning a new skill like fermenting usually seems overwhelming. But it’s actually not that much work.

Like most things in life, once you get a system happening, everything comes together quite quickly.

So I encourage you to just choose one project to get started. If you’re not sure, basic fermented veg are the best place because you don’t need any special ingredients or equipment.

Then when you’re happy with your first project, you can take it from there…

2. Taste!

I went into detail on the benefits of tasting in the ‘techniques’ section. So revist that if you want a reminder.

The best fermenters / wine makers / cheese makers / chefs taste their works in progress. If you want to get any good at fermenting, you must be prepared to taste.

3. Watch the Temperature

You’ll notice a big difference between your ferments in Winter vs Summer. Temperature is the biggest lever you have to play with when fermenting.

Back in my wine making days we were often trying to cool down the fermentation so they happened more gently. The general rule was that the slower and cooler the ferment, the more interesting flavour compounds were produced with the alcohol. Which meant better tasting wine!

4. Be Aware of UV Light

Direct sunlight will kill your bacteria. So keep your ferments somewhere protected from the sun. No need to ferment in dark glass or store them in a cellar. Avoiding direct light is enough.

I like to keep my ferments in a protected place on my kitchen bench so they’re not exposed to direct light, but they’re also visible so I remember to check on them every day.

5. Don’t Overfill Your Containers

When the CO2 gas is produced, it causes the ferment to expand (think bread dough). For vegetable ferments keeping some space to allow for this is important for avoiding spillage and mess.

Apart from the mess, you want to avoid the spillage because any

6. Keep the ferment covered in liquid

Remember the bacteria are anaerobic, meaning they don’t need air to grow. So it’s important to keep the surface of your ferment covered in liquid so they can do their job. And prevent spoilage organisms growing on the surface.

I just press down on the surface of any vegetable ferment to recover it with liquid when I do my daily checkin.

No need to worry about this for kombucha because the SCOBY naturally floats on top and creates the perfect protection.

Also not applicable to kefir, yoghurt, vinegar or bread.

7. The Food Safety Rule of Thumb

With your ferments the rule of thumb is that white moulds are fine. Just remove them and continue on. But brightly coloured or black molds can be problematic. So best to scrap that project and start fresh.

8. Trust your instincts.

If something doesn’t taste or smell right, best to throw it out. (Or if in doubt just ask me in the comments below!)

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Recipes – Fermented Veggies

• Basic Fermented Vegetables
• Fermented Turmeric Cauliflower
• Simple Sauerkraut
• Simple Crunchy Kimchi
• Sarah’s Indian Kimchi
• Fermented Chilli Hot Sauce

Recipes – Dairy & Coconut

• Cows Milk Yoghurt
• Cashew Yoghurt
• Super Fresh Ricotta
• Milk Kefir
• Sour Cream / Creme Fraiche – NEW!
• Labneh (Yoghurt Cheese)

Recipes – Other Fermented Foods

• Wine Vinegar
• Sourdough Starter
• Sourdough Loaf
• A Perfect Yeasted Loaf
• Pizza Dough
• Preserved Lemon
• Kombucha!

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Resources

• BOOK – ‘The Art of Fermentation’ by Sandor Katz
• BOOK – ‘Milk. Made. A Book About Cheese’ by Nick Haddow
• BOOK – ‘The Good Gut’ by Justin & Erica Sonnenburg
• BOOK – ‘The Clever Guts Diet’ by Michael Mosely
• BOOK – ‘Brain Maker. The Power of Gut Microbes’ by Kirstin Loberg & David Perlmutter
• BLOG POST – The Number 1. Way to Improve Your Gut Health
• BLOG POST – 20 Best Foods for Gut Health
• WEBSITE – Yemoos.com
• WEBSITE – Cheeselinks.com.au (yoghurt starter culture)
• WEBSITE – Biome.com.au

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