The Art of Seasoning

A Seasoning Story

When I was first getting into cooking, I always felt a little lost when I got to the part of the recipe that said ‘season to taste’.

I’d just add in some salt and pepper, cross my fingers and ‘hope’ for the best.

All that changed for me on a trip to Mexico…

Taking a class in Mexican cooking just outside Oaxaca, I learned a lot more than the fact that fried grasshoppers are delicious. I learned what is means to season properly.

And what a massive difference it can make to how things taste.

We made a pretty ho-hum fish soup. Then with the help of our instructor, seasoned it until it was a delicious soup. A soup that danced on our taste buds.

From that day on I’ve learned to take the time to season my food. I can’t tell you what a difference it’s made to my cooking.

It only takes a minute or so. And a few basic ingredients.

Time well spent…

What is Seasoning?

Seasoning is about improving the flavour of your food mostly via the addition of salt and pepper. Herbs, spices, sweet things and acidic things can also be considered seasoning.

How to Season. PART 1. Salt & Pepper

How do I go about Seasoning?

Before you serve, have a little taste and ask yourself these questions:

1. Does this taste delicious as is? Or are the flavours a little dull?

2. Would it taste (even) better with some salt and pepper?

If you’re a little unsure, you can take out a little sample and add some salt and pepper to it. Taste and compare to the original. If it tastes better, add salt to the dish. If not then you’re ready to serve.

It’s all about backing yourself and trusting your judgement.

I often challenge myself to add more salt than I’d think. There’s only been one time when I took it too far. Usually I surpruse myself how much better it tastes with the extra salt.

What Should I Use?

Salt

For salt, I keep three kinds.

1. Cheap finely ground sea salt for bulk seasoning things like pasta cooking water or for making brine.

2. Moderately Priced Finely Ground Himalayan or Sea Salt. I use this for most seasoning in the kitchen.

3. Expensive Sea Salt flakes. These are ‘finishing salts’ that have a lovely large flake structure that make them perfect for crushing over things at the last minute. Or when you want to have the visuals of pretty salt flakes. In the past I used Maldon but have since switched to Olsson a local Australian supplier.

Iodized salt is great for people that don’t get any seafood in their diet and might be iodine deficient, but it can have a metallic taste.

Pepper

I like to use the best black peppercorns I can afford. My favourite are Telicherry peppercorns from India.

With pepper, freshly ground is best. So I keep a pepper grinder on the dining table and one in the kitchen.

If you don’t own a pepper grinder, at least get yourself one of those supermarket disposable bottles of peppercorns. There is no substitute for the fragrance of freshly ground pepper.

Generally I focus on seasoning with salt in the kitchen and add pepper at the table.

Personally I’m not a fan of white pepper because it has a faint aroma of B.O. But it’s often used by chefs when they want the flavour of pepper without the black colour.

When to Season

There are two main times to think about seasoning – the beginning and the end.

In the past I focused on seasoning at the end. Just before serving.

However since reading ‘Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat’ by Samin Nosrat, I’ve changed my approach.

Now I look for opportunities to season as early as possible and do the fine tuning just before serving.

This approach not only gives more well seasoned food, it also helps with texture and appearance.

Seasoning meat and eggs before cooking helps them retain moisture during the cooking process. It can also help tenderize. And salting the cooking water for green veg helps keep their colour bright.

For more on this concept see The Art of Seasoning from Within.

What If I Add too Much?

We’ve all been a bit heavy handed with the salt at times. Although I can’t remember ever having a pepper overdose.

The only way you can fix serious over-salting is to dilute the dish or serve with unsalted accompaniments.

Which can be tricky.

The best bet is to serve lots of water. And keep the mistake to yourself. The power of suggestion can really sway peoples’ taste perceptions so best not to alert your diners to the over-salting situation.

There have been times when I thought I’d added too much salt but when we sat down to eat, my Irishman complimented me on how amazing dinner was.

Go figure.

How to Season. PART 2. Sweet & Sour

The warm and wonderful Thai people have been all over the balance between sweet, sour, salty and heat for ages.

For me, it’s something that I actually learned to appreciate during my years as a winemaker.

At winemaking school we did many experiments where we would ‘doctor’ a wine with different types and amounts of acid. We’d then taste the different samples to see which ones were best.

It was incredibly enlightening to see the difference that sourness played in the wine.

It was more than just tasting more tart.

At the optimal acid level the wine would be more bright and alive on the tastebuds. It would sing.

The other benefit was that the mouthfeel of the wine would change as well. If the standard was very low on acid it would tend to feel oily and flabby in the mouth. Add some acid and the change was remarkable. The very same wine could feel thirst-quenchingly crisp.

It dawned on me, that the ability of acid to change flavour and texture must also be relevant in food.

So I began to pay more attention to the use of sour things in my cooking as well.

And I haven’t looked back.

It’s amazing how a little vinegar can bring to life something like lentils. On their own, they taste fine – all earthy and comforting. But with a little vinegar you have a dish that really shines.

Why Season with Sweet & Sour?

1. Provide balance & harmony.

As I mentioned earlier with Thai food we’re looking for balance between 
sweet, sour, salty & hot (or not!)

2. Enhance and ‘brighten’ flavours.

Changing the acidity of food changes how we perceive flavours.

3. Freshen ‘mouthfeel’ especially with rich or fatty foods.

Rich foods coat the palate and can be quite heavy or ‘dull’. Acid helps to ‘cut through’ this heaviness and provide freshness.

4. Sweet balances bitterness.

We’ll go through this in more detail in our ‘problem solving’ section.

But for now, if you have something that tastes bitter, like rocket (arugula), radicchio or endive, dressing it in a sweet dressing with honey or balsamic vinegar will make the leaves taste less bitter and more appealing.

6 Tips for Seasoning with Sweet and Sour

1. Choose an acid with an appropriate flavour profile

Most sources of acid for use in cooking have a unique type of flavour. Think of the difference between limes and lemons, or between a delicate sherry vinegar and a super-concentrated balsamic and pick the best one to work with your dish.

See the list of acid options below to give you ideas.

2. Choose a sugar with an appropriate flavour profile

Think about the dish that you want to add sweetness to. If the flavours are delicate, like a fresh passionfruit dessert you’re probably best choosing a more ‘neutral’ sweetener like white sugar.

But for more robust dishes like a satay sauce, or a Thai red curry, adding brown sugar with the extra caramel flavours can add lovely complexity. See the list below for other ideas.

3. Get creative with your sources

While it can be easy to just reach for a squeeze of lemon or a spoonful of sugar, sometimes it can be more fun to add an element to a dish that will provide the sweetness or sourness you’re looking for.

This can add variety so that not every mouthful is the same.

I love a dish that has different bursts of flavour. Think about using fruit or dried fruit in savoury dishes.

Or using acidic ingredients like fresh tomato, goats cheese, rhubarb, slices of lime or lemon or marinated anchovies for a little sour buzz.

4. Gently does it

If you overdo the sweetness or the sourness, they can be used to balance each other to a degree.

So if there’s too much acid, a little sugar can help and vice versa.

But this is far from ideal. Better to season carefully and avoid the need for corrective measures.

5. Taste before and after

Don’t just assume that you’re going to need the sweetness or sourness.

Taste first and ask yourself whether it is good as is or whether it would benefit from some more sharpness or more sweetness.

6. Beware of taste saturation

When your taste buds have been exposed to something a few times, they become less sensitive to those flavours.

So if you’ve been tasting and tweaking for a while, it’s good to have a break and a glass of water. Or ask someone else to have a taste for you.

Sour or ‘Acid’ Ingredients:

Sherry vinegar – most versatile. good balance of flavour and acidity. My favourite vinegar!

Rice wine vinegar – mild flavour and gentle acidity – somewhere between wine vinegar and citrus juice. My second favourite.

Apple cider vinegar – I like to have a tablespoon on its own after dinner to help digestion. A good medium strength vinegar with a slight apple flavour.

Red wine vinegar – heavy, intense acidity, good when you need a big flavour punch

White wine / champagne vinegar – still very sharp but less flavour and colour than red wine vinegar.

Balsamic vinegar – very sweet & intense, depending on quality level and age – less acidic than red wine vinegar.

White vinegar – Harsh acidity with little supporting flavour. Inexpensive. I tend not to use this.

Brown or malt vinegar – Great for sprinkling over fish and chips or pickling onions but can be very harsh. Use with caution.

Lemon – less intense acidity than wine vinegars. Big fresh lemony flavour as well. Great with fish & chicken. Use both juice and zest.

Lime – tends to be less acidic again than lemon juice. Again both the juice and zest can be used.

Preserved Lemons – add acid and an intense salty hit. Addictive stuff!

Yoghurt – a good Greek yoghurt is wonderful for adding acid with a cooling creaminess.

Sour Cream – think beyond Mexican. Like yoghurt great for adding creaminess as well as tang.

Cheese – Not the first thing that comes to mind, however most cheeses contain lactic acid which is milder than the acetic acid of vinegar or the citric acid of lemons. Goats cheese and feta are the two most tangy but even grated parmesan can add some freshness.

Fermented / Pickled Veg – I love a little sauerkraut or kimchi to add crunch and acid to me every day lunches.

Sweet Ingredients:

White sugar – great all purpose sweetener. Clean sweet flavour. Will need to dissolve to avoid any grittiness. I tend to choose caster sugar or icing sugar (powdered sugar) so it dissolves easily.

Honey – unique flavour. Works well in sauces or dressings or anywhere you don’t want to worry about getting sugar crystals to dissolve.

Brown sugar – Gives extra ‘caramel’ flavours which can be a plus in robust dishes but can overpower delicate flavours.

Balsamic vinegar – great in salad dressings or for drizzling over finished dishes. Gives sweet and sour in one hit!

Dried or fresh fruit – chopped or whole. Can add texture and visual interest as well.

Fruit juice – loads of options here. Think chicken cooked in apricot nectar or using a splash of apple juice in dressings.

Maple syrup – similar to honey with a slightly different flavour profile.

Stevia – a natural alternative to sugar that doesn’t mess around with your blood sugar levels in the way sugar does. A little goes a long way.

How to Season. PART 3. Flavourings

Once you have the basics of salt, pepper, sweet and sour, it’s time to branch out and explore the world or spices, herbs and sauces.

By harnessing the power of these three main categories of flavourings, I can guarantee you’ll never get bored with your cooking.

You’ll discover how easy it is to tweak your favourite recipes so that they taste a little different each time.

Spices.

Take it slow. Start with dried chili flakes, chili powder, or whole chilies, then add 1-2 of the following to your repertoire at a time:

Ground cumin.

Combine a tablespoon of this with an equal amount of olive oil, then use it to marinate your steak before cooking. A pinch of cumin will also add a new dimension of flavor to a tub of hummus.

Ground coriander.

Sprinkle some over cooked fish, chicken or pork. It’s also brilliant when added to your spinach before microwaving.

Curry powder.

Add a few teaspoons to your lentils before heating them for lunch. I love to add a little to my scrambled eggs.

Smoked paprika.

Use as a dry rub on chicken before grilling. It’s also wonderful with tomato-based dishes.

Sumac.

A middle eastern spice that has a gorgeous deep red colour and zesty lemony flavour. Works well anywhere you’d normally use lemon especially with fish or chicken.

Fennel seeds.

I love their aniseedy flavour. A classic match with pork but also surprisingly good with lamb. I also use them to make fennel tea.

Turmeric.

A super bright yellow spice used in Indian and middle eastern cooking. The flavour is exotic. It’s a great anti-inflammatory and has been linked with reduced tumour growth in cancer patients. I’ve included it here because it’s something I’ve been meaning to use more often!

For more on spices see:

• How to stock a minimalist spice collection
• Interview with a spice master
• My 3 Favourite Spice Blends (and their substitutes)

Herbs.

Dried herbs tend to just make everything taste like stale weed. Stay away from them!

For fresh herbs, here are a few ideas:

Basil

Best in Summer and early Autumn / Fall. Great with anything tomato-based. I also love it with eggs and it can freshen up anything particularly cheesy – hello pizza.

Cilantro (coriander)

I love its wonderful freshness and fragrance. Use the leaves but also chop up the stems and the Thais use the roots in their curry pastes. Great with Asian dishes, but also works well with anything fresh and lemony or limey. Fish and chicken in particular. Be careful, though, I know quite a few people who find it completely disgusting and overpowering.

Thyme

Fragrant and floral, I find thyme to be really versatile. From a meaty steak to delicate egg dishes it enhances without taking over. My first choice if you can only grow one herb. A little goes a long way.

For more on herbs:
See: Cooking with Herbs

Sauces

Prepared sauces can be indispensable for adding flavour to basic dishes. And you don’t need a massive collection to make a difference.

Soy sauce
I highly recommend starting out with a bottle of soy sauce. Don’t only have it with Asian-inspired dishes; use it instead of salt whenever you crave a more intense, savory flavor.

Hot sauce
If you like spicy foods, a bottle of Cholula, Tabasco or Sriracha will be indispensable. Although, dried chilli powder can work just as well.

Oyster sauce
Oyster sauce is great for lovers of Thai food. Apart from soy, this is my go-to sauce for stir frys. Works just as well with beef as it does with chinese broccoli (or regular broccoli for that matter) and everything in between. Vegetarians should keep an eye out for veggie ‘oyster’ sauce, I’ve found a few good ones in my time.

Tomato paste
I always have some canned tomatoes or tomato paste in my pantry. While not strictly seasonings, they are great for adding variety.

Pesto
A jar of pesto can be a great flavor hit, freshness and greenery. The other option is to make your own and keep a jar in the fridge under oil.

Mayonnaise
Now that I’ve gone low carb, I’ve been using a lot more mayo. Rich and creamy, it’s great on its own as an instant sauce but also works a treat when flavoured with anything from basil to mustard to horseradish.

Mustard
I usually keep both a creamy Dijon and a wholegrain mustard on hand. Mostly for adding depth to salad dressings but also handy to serve with steak or other grilled meats. [/tab][tab] NOTE: ALL THE LESSONS COVERED IN THESE VIDEOS ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THE WRITTEN MATERIAL.

7 Tips for Seasoning Like a Pro

1. Think about the saltiness of your ingredients

One of the best ways to anticipate whether you’re going to need any extra seasoning is to have a think about how much salt each ingredient is contributing. If there are olives, anchovies, capers or bacon, for example, the dish is probably sufficiently salty.

2. Beware of taste saturation

Remember that when your taste buds have been exposed to something a few times, they become less sensitive to those flavours. So if you’ve been tasting and tweaking for a while, it’s good to have a break and a glass of water OR get a second opinion from someone else.

3. Consider your accompaniments & the end use.

If you’re making a filling for pies, remember that it’s going to be eaten with the pastry so a little bit more salt might not be a bad thing.

4. Allow for the serving temperature.

The colder things are, the duller the flavours (or really the less we perceive them). Best to taste and season at the serving temperature if you can, otherwise try and allow for differences in temperature.

5. Always err on the ‘less is more’.

Removing excess salt is pretty much impossible, so best to season gradually.

6. Consider individual preferences and sensitivities.

Everyone is different. People who rarely eat salty food will be more sensitive than those who eat out all the time. Likewise, younger people tend to be more taste sensitive than the elderly. The answer is to season as much as you think it needs, but serve some salt at the table for your guests to fine tune.

7. Taste with a Teaspoon.

It can be easy to taste too much and end up sitting down at the table not feeling hungry at all. I now grab a clean teaspoon every time I taste which stops me taking too much. And because I hate creating extra washing up, I’m less likely to go back for thirds or fourths 🙂

Seasoning Problem Solving Guide

One of the biggest lessons I learned at winemaking school and working in the industry was the importance of balance when it comes to making things taste their best.

While it can be a bit daunting when you’re just starting out, there are a few rules of thumb that can help guide your decision making and get you to the best tasting results.

Here are some common problems and the best way to fix them:

Too Salty
A little sugar can balance but tread very carefully because it’s easy to go too sweet – which can taste weird. The safest way to overcome a big salty problem is to dilute the food, adding water or more of any of the component ingredients will help.

Too Sweet
A little salt is your friend. For some reason overly sweet dishes respond better to salt than salty dishes respond to sugar.

Bland
Salt is my first choice. The second is a little acidity – lemon juice is my go-to here.

Too Acidic
In winemaking, sugar can help balance out acidity. It also works in food, but we cooks are lucky to have another option. A little cream, butter or olive oil is a really lovely way to smooth out something too sharp.

Oily / Too Rich
While this isn’t so much a flavour problem, acidity helps to cut through the richness. Think fish & chips with vinegar or lemon juice or fresh sharp raspberries with a too rich chocolate cake.

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