The art of seasoning part 2. sweet & sour (acidity)

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The warm and wonderful Thai people have been all over the balance between sweet, sour, salty and heat for ages.

For me, it’s something that I actually learned to appreciate during my years as a winemaker. At winemaking school we did many experiments where we would ‘doctor’ a wine with different types and amounts of acid. We’d then taste the different samples to see which ones were best. It was incredibly enlightening to see the difference that sourness played in the wine.

It was more than just tasting more tart. At the optimal acid level the wine would be more bright and alive on the tastebuds. It would sing.

The other benefit was that the mouthfeel of the wine would change as well. If the standard was very low on acid it would tend to feel oily and flabby in the mouth. Add some acid and the change was remarkable. The very same wine could feel thirst-quenchingly crisp.

It dawned on me, that the ability of acid to change flavour and texture must also be relevant in food.

So I began to pay more attention to the use of sour things in my cooking as well. And I haven’t looked back really. It’s amazing how a little vinegar can bring to life something like the canned lentils. On their own, they taste fine – all earthy and comforting. But with a little vinegar you have a dish that really shines.

tips for seasoning with the sweet and the sour

choose an acid with an appropriate flavour profile
Most sources of acid for use in cooking have a unique type of flavour. Think of the difference between limes and lemons, or between a delicate sherry vinegar and a super-concentrated balsamic and pick the best one to work with your dish.

Acid options:
§ White vinegar
Harsh acidity with little supporting flavour. Inexpensive. I tend not to use this.
§ Brown or malt vinegar
Great for sprinkling over fish and chips or pickling onions but can be very harsh. Use with caution.
§ Red wine vinegar
heavy, intense acidity, good when you need a big flavour punch
§ White wine / champagne vinegar
still very sharp but less flavour and colour than red wine vinegar.
§ Balsamic vinegar
very sweet & intense, depending on quality level and age – less acidic than red wine vinegar.
§ Sherry vinegar
most versatile. good balance of flavour and acidity.
§ Rice wine vinegar
mild flavour and gentle acidity – somewhere between wine vinegar and citrus juice
§ Lemon juice
less intense acidity than wine vinegars. Big fresh lemony flavour as well. Great with fish & chicken.
§ Lime juice
tends to be less acidic again than lemon juice

choose a sugar with an appropriate flavour profile
While brown sugar can add a lovely caramelised flavour along with some sweetness, it can clash with the delicate freshness of something like a passion fruit dessert. White sugar is best when you want to add a clean sweetness – I tend to choose caster sugar so it dissolves easily.

Then of course there is always balsamic vinegar which covers the sweet and the sour in one hit. Other options include honey, dried or fresh fruit, fruit juice and maple syrup.

get creative with your sources
While it can be easy to just reach for a squeeze of lemon or a spoonful of sugar, sometimes it can be more fun to add an element to a dish that will provide the sweetness or sourness you’re looking for. This can add variety so that not every mouthful is the same.

I love a dish that has different bursts of flavour. Think about using fruit or dried fruit in savoury dishes. Or using acidic ingredients like fresh tomato, rhubarb, slices of lime or lemon or marinated anchovies for a little sour buzz.

gently does it
If you overdo the sweetness or the sourness, they can be used to balance each other to a degree. So if there’s too much acid, a little sugar can help and vice versa. But this is far from ideal. Better to season carefully and avoid the need for corrective measures.

taste before and after
Don’t just assume that you’re going to need the sweetness or sourness. Taste first and ask yourself whether it is good as is or whether it would benefit from some more sharpness or more sweetness.

beware of taste saturation
When your taste buds have been exposed to something a few times, they become less sensitive to those flavours. So if you’ve been tasting and tweaking for a while, it’s good to have a break and a glass of water. Or ask someone else to have a taste for you.

keen to learn more?

Part 1. salt & pepper
Part 2. sweet & sour (acidity)
Part 3. flavourings
Bonus – seasoning problem solving guide.

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